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Orris oil

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An illustration of the Iris germanica

Orris oil (orris butter or Beurre d'Iris) is an essential oil derived from irises, particularly Iris germanica.[1] It is sometimes used as a flavoring agent and as an ingredient in perfume production. It can also have uses in body lotions.

Storage and use

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The rhizomes (roots) must be stored in a cool, dry location for three years to develop the scent.[1] The fresh rhizomes are almost odorless.

The distilled oil solidifies in the receiver as a wax-like and cream-colored mass known as orris concrete. It is solid because of the high content of myristic acid (85%), a white stearin-like substance.[1]

Orris concrete melts when it reaches around body temperature. It has a woody, fatty-oily, yet distinctly violet-like odor: sweet floral, warm & tenacious with a fruity undertone. Orris concrete is used in perfumery when the presence of myristic acid is not prohibitive, e.g.: in soap perfumes where the weak acid only acts as a fixative. The methyl and ethyl esters of myristic acid are often used for blending in violet type perfume bases. The high costs of orris oil production limit its application.

References

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  1. ^ a b c Harborne, Jeffrey B.; Baxter, Herbert (2001-08-30). Chemical Dictionary of Economic Plants. John Wiley & Sons. p. 85. ISBN 9780471492269. Retrieved 2014-09-22.