Chocolate Birthday Cake

Published July 9, 2024

Chocolate Birthday Cake
Nico Schinco for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.
Total Time
1 hour 20 minutes, plus cooling and chilling
Prep Time
10 minutes
Cook Time
1 hour 10 minutes, plus cooling and chilling
Rating
4(45)
Notes
Read community notes

This tender, dark chocolate cake, layered with a fluffy, not-too-sweet, white Ermine icing, also known as boiled-milk frosting, is inspired by the memory of a Chuck E. Cheese chocolate birthday cake from the early 1990s. This style of devil’s food cake is also a staple of the refrigerated cases in supermarket bakeries, and starts with an oil-based cake that doesn’t harden when cold, as butter-based cakes do. The chilled, soft sponge gets its special dark and nostalgic flavor from vanilla, sour cream and Dutch-processed cocoa powder, which is less acidic than natural cocoa powder and produces a darker color and rounder flavor. Hot coffee blooms the generous amount of cocoa powder and melts the chopped bittersweet chocolate, giving this cake a dreamy, fudgy texture when cold. Sour cream lends tenderness to the crumb and lightness to the frosting. The buffed, blindingly white frosting is sturdy enough for candles.

Learn: How to Frost a Cake

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Ingredients

Yield:8 to 10 servings

    For the Cake

    • Olive oil, for greasing pans
    • ¾cup plus 2 tablespoons/83 grams Dutch-processed cocoa powder
    • 1cup/240 milliliters hot coffee
    • ounces/43 grams bittersweet chocolate, chopped (¼ cup)
    • ½cup/118 milliliters extra-virgin olive oil
    • 1⅓cups/267 grams granulated sugar
    • 3large eggs, at room temperature
    • ¾cup/162 grams sour cream, at room temperature
    • 1tablespoon pure vanilla extract
    • 1cup/128 grams all-purpose flour
    • 1teaspoon baking powder
    • ¾teaspoon baking soda
    • ¾teaspoon coarse kosher salt or fine salt

    For the Frosting

    • ¾cup/150 grams granulated sugar
    • 3tablespoons/25 grams all-purpose flour
    • ¼teaspoon coarse kosher salt or fine salt
    • 1cup/240 milliliters whole milk
    • 1cup/227 grams unsalted butter, at room temperature
    • ½cup/120 grams sour cream, at room temperature
    • 1teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (10 servings)

651 calories; 43 grams fat; 19 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 18 grams monounsaturated fat; 3 grams polyunsaturated fat; 68 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams dietary fiber; 47 grams sugars; 8 grams protein; 412 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Make the cake: Grease three 8-inch round cake pans using a paper towel dabbed with a generous amount of olive oil. Line the bottoms with rounds of parchment paper. Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven and heat oven to 350 degrees.

  2. Step 2

    In a large bowl, whisk the cocoa powder and hot coffee until smooth. Add the chocolate and stir occasionally until fully melted and mostly cooled, about 1 minute. Vigorously whisk in the extra-virgin olive oil until smooth. Add the sugar and whisk until smooth, then add the eggs, sour cream and vanilla, breaking each yolk before whisking until very smooth.

  3. Step 3

    Sift in the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. (If you don’t have a sieve, you can whisk these dry ingredients in a separate bowl, then add to the wet ingredients.) Whisk just until incorporated and no flour streaks remain. The batter will be thin.

  4. Step 4

    Divide the batter evenly among the three prepared pans (about 390 grams per pan). Place two of the pans on the top rack and one on the bottom. Bake, swapping the position of the bottom cake with the top two halfway through, until the cakes pull away from the sides of the pans, the tops are cracking slightly and a toothpick inserted in the centers comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes.

  5. Step 5

    Let the cakes cool completely, then remove from the pans to frost right away or wrap in plastic wrap or foil and freeze for up to 3 days. (To help the cakes release from the pans, run a dull, slightly flexible knife or offset spatula around the edges and slightly underneath the cakes.)

  6. Step 6

    While the cakes bake and cool, make the frosting: In a medium saucepan, whisk the sugar, flour and salt. Whisk in the milk until smooth. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture starts to bubble, about 4 minutes, then continue whisking the boiling mixture until it’s thick like pudding, about 2 minutes longer. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.

  7. Step 7

    Beat on high speed until the bowl feels cool to the touch. It may take up to 5 minutes. With the mixer on medium-high speed, add the butter 2 tablespoons at a time, beating until smooth between additions. When all of the butter has been incorporated, raise the speed to high and beat until white and very fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Stop the mixer, add the sour cream and vanilla, then beat on low just until incorporated.

  8. Step 8

    Frost the cake: Place one cake layer bottom-side up on a flat plate or cake stand, then top with about ¾ cup of the frosting and spread evenly using an offset spatula. Don’t worry about the sides yet. Repeat with the second and third cake layers, placing them bottom-sides up. With the remaining frosting, frost the sides of the cake. It’s okay if you don’t cover the sides completely like the inner layers, but do make sure there are no gaps at the edges where the layers meet. Refrigerate until firm and set, then serve cold or bring to room temperature first if you prefer. The cold, set cake can be wrapped in plastic and refrigerated for up to 24 hours or frozen for up to a month. Thaw before serving if needed.

Ratings

4 out of 5
45 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

I just made this for the first time as a practice bake for an upcoming bday (best friend's 50th). I couldn't be bothered with layers for a test cake, so I baked it in a 9x13 light-colored metal pan for 30 min at 325° convection (aka 350°). It rose beautifully and is otherwise exactly as the recipe described it would be.

Watch Eric’s process video on youtube! I’m pregnant and unable to do anything really because of such nausea, and this video was such a nice distraction! I can’t wait until I feel good enough to go to the store and get the ingredients. Chocolate cake is my heart.

I love that. Thank you so much, and hope you feel better! Here's the link, for anyone tackling this recipe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zz3vn2yALnA

Made last night with the kids for my youngest’s birthday. It came out perfect. The batter seemed thin and like it wasn’t enough for three pans, but it was just the right amount. Had to cook and whisk the frosting longer than stated, more like 12 minutes, maybe I had too low temp. The frosting seemed like it would not be enough, but after all the whipping in the kitchenaid it fluffed up and was plenty. Swedish Mother in law said it was best cake I ever made. Not too sweet like the others.

I’d picked out another recipe for my brother’s birthday but then saw Eric’s post about recreating his favorite childhood birthday cake. I switched to his recipe and have zero regrets. The whole family loved it and said “It’s a keeper!” Because I only had 2 nine-inch pans instead of 3 eight-inch pans, I divided 495 grams of batter between the two pans and made 3 cupcakes with the remaining batter. The icing is a revelation! Simple and sophisticated! Love the video! Thanks, Eric!

Hi Lucinda, I do think 3 centimeters is a little short for this cake. It could be the leaveners (try refreshing them) or the bake (did you see a crack when you removed them from the oven?). Though these layers are meant to bake flatter than usual — meaning you don't have to carve them before frosting — I've noticed that underbaking them results in less of a rise. Ideally there's a very slight dome in the centers and a crack or two, signifying that they've been baked through. Eric

Gigi, a cake stand did fit in my fridge (thanks to an adjustable shelf). I suggest you just refrigerate the cake using a plate with a large piece of parchment or a cardboard cake round to help you slide it on to a stand if you want to use that to serve. JB, bittersweet chocolate is about 70% dark. I used Guittard dark chocolate chips (63%) and it turned out great!

I can’t explain how excited I was to open the link to this recipe and see it’s MY birthday cake! For almost 50 years this has been my combo. My mom would bake the cakes and cut and shape them into characters like Snoopy. Ermine frosting was always my favorite. Maybe it’s because my birthday’s coming up and I miss her, but this post made me very nostalgic! Inver never put sour cream in my ermine frosting, but I will give it a shot, because Eric Kim said to. I’m so glad the Times has you, Eric!

Suggest you Google "dairy-free buttercream," or "vegan buttercream," which will yield hundreds of recipes for you to choose from.

It would be fine. What you are going for is the flavor and the heat of the hot coffee to melt the chocolate.

At 1-1/2 oz, the chocolate is there as much for texture as taste, but in general: definitely not the same as unsweetened (and even at 1-1/2 oz, I wouldn't sub unsweetened). Bittersweet is often 70% (semisweet 60%), but there isn't a precise definition.

For gluten-free folks, Bob’s Red Mill and King Arthur Flour have “cup for cup” type gluten-free flours that can be substituted for the same amount of conventional all purpose flour in any cake or cookie recipe. They would work just fine here. Both of those products are available in my local grocery store in Vermont.

Pure joy putting the ingredients together, baking and frosting it...in the refrigerator to enjoy tomorrow night for a celebration! I can't wait and will look forward to it all day!

Could you bake this in 2 9" pans? And what would the timing be?

How do I convert this to a 8x8 square? I want to make it for a very chill kids birthday party and cannot commit to layers.

Is bittersweet chocolate the same as unsweetened for this recipe? What percentage of cocoa content in the chocolate is recommended?

At 1-1/2 oz, the chocolate is there as much for texture as taste, but in general: definitely not the same as unsweetened (and even at 1-1/2 oz, I wouldn't sub unsweetened). Bittersweet is often 70% (semisweet 60%), but there isn't a precise definition.

This frosting recipe is the same one my mother used for Red Velvet Cake. It is a velvety smooth icing that is just sweet enough & not cloying. Perfect!

I can’t explain how excited I was to open the link to this recipe and see it’s MY birthday cake! For almost 50 years this has been my combo. My mom would bake the cakes and cut and shape them into characters like Snoopy. Ermine frosting was always my favorite. Maybe it’s because my birthday’s coming up and I miss her, but this post made me very nostalgic! Inver never put sour cream in my ermine frosting, but I will give it a shot, because Eric Kim said to. I’m so glad the Times has you, Eric!

Just wondering if yogurt can by substituted for the sour cream? I don’t like it and never know what to do with leftovers! Besides bake more haha. I imagine it would give the icing a tang. Thanks so much!

Has anyone tried adding melted chocolate to the frosting? It seems a shame to have a chocolate cake without chocolate frosting, as I am a believer in maximum chocolate at all times.

I am the only chocolate enthusiast in our household and am wondering if cutting these ingredients by half will work to bake in an 8” square pan? Has anyone tried?

Can the coffee be substituted?

Eric - is there any way I can make the frosting without a stand mixer? We’re in Costa Rica on vacation and I want to make it for my youngest who is turning 1 on our vacation!

This is my absolute favorite kind of layer cake! In the 60s my mom used to buy it at a local department store's bakery. One question: Can I sub hot water for the coffee? I know coffee adds depth of flavor to chocolate but it gives me a terrible headache.

You can!

For gluten-free folks, Bob’s Red Mill and King Arthur Flour have “cup for cup” type gluten-free flours that can be substituted for the same amount of conventional all purpose flour in any cake or cookie recipe. They would work just fine here. Both of those products are available in my local grocery store in Vermont.

Amendment to my earlier note about GF flour: for the frosting, the “measure for measure” flours might be a little gritty, and might not have the thickening power of all purpose flour. I’d probably try substituting 1.5 tbs arrowroot or tapioca flour for the 3T of all-purpose wheat flour, though those may cook up gummier than the wheat flour. Maybe look that one up online... or just make a buttercream or some other kind of frosting which doesn’t have flour in it to begin with.

Could anyone advise me if the cake and frosting could be made with a gluten free flour? I don't bake often because of family sensitivities!

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